Choosing the right lock
Type of locks
1/ Mortice locks fitted into the door.
2/ Rim Locks fitted to the surface of the door.
3/ Multi point locks morticed into door but have more than 1 bolt locking into frame.
4/ Secondary security locks added to door surface for extra security.
5/ Padlocks.
6/ Cam Locks.
7/ Plunger locks
Mortice locks a) The case depth is most important factor to consider, as if you have a glazed panel the lock may not have enough wood for it to be morticed completely into the door. Most mortice locks are 63mm or 76mm Deep. It is also important that you get a lock which has a kite marked forend. BS Standard for external doors means the lock is insurance approved. Never fit a lock which requires a key to escape on a flat entrance door, this is the most important requirement for any lock, if there is a fire there must be means to escape without key use. Apartment/Flat Entrance doors should use cylinder mortice locks these have a thumbturn on the inside for escape. So remember these points : Case, Depth, Backset (distance from forend to the centre of Keyway) British Standard requirements, Fire Escape (Most important). Never fit a lock that requires the use of a key if it is in a public building Fire door or if there in a block of residential apartments. You will not find your keys in a room full of smoke, Think about it.
Rim Locks b) Rim locks have the similar rules as mortice locks the only difference being they’re fitted onto the surface of the door. Backsets are normally 40mm (Narrow style) and 60mm (standard style) again find out if you have enough wood to fit the lock case. When you purchase a rim Nightlatch, more commonly known by their brand name ‘Yale Lock’ please be sure that the correct hand is ordered otherwise the keyhole will be upside down. When purchasing a lock of any kind we would recommend that you purchase a branded lock e.g. Yale, Chubb, Union , Era, Evva, Imperial, Legge, Abus. The reason why this is advised is that a lot of imported products that are arriving into this country have been copied and is very difficult sometimes for key cutters to duplicate extra keys.
Multi point locks c) Multi point locks are an absolute mine field, there are many different variations. There are many manufactures many or whom originate from overseas. There are bolts, latches and mushroom locking devices, 3 and 5 point locking. If you have purchased a new timber door it would be reasonably easy to supply but if you are trying to replace one it would be your worst nightmare. If you have a problem with your multi point then contact your local locksmith. Remember there are three components on a multi point lock, Handle, Multi point lock, Cylinder. There are various handles on the market and the cylinders that you will have to replace would probably be offset in length. Offset cylinders means that one side of the cylinder is further away from the cam than the other i.e. isn’t central to the door. To determine the offset you have to remove the cylinder (Barrel) and measure one end to the centre of the cam (part that rotates) and then the other end to the centre of the cam. Multi point locks are by far the best way of securing a door but remember that the multi point lock is only as good as the cylinder to operate it. Most door manufacturers fit these type of locks to there doors but do not use a high security cylinder to operate it. If you have a sub-standard cylinder they are easy to pick and possibly weak which would enable somebody to break them in half, allowing them to gain access to mechanism. A good rule to follow when choosing a cylinder is never to have your cylinder protruding more than 3mm out of the door handle as it can be attacked and snapped in half.
Secondary security locks d) There are different variations which are all quite self explanatory, they give you extra security in case of door attack. E.g. Door Chain, Patio Door Lock, Mortice Rack Bolts. If you wish to add extra security to your door, we would recommend mortice bolts used with a star Key.
Padlocks e) When deciding on a padlock you have to scale the security of the padlock with the contents of items you are locking up. There is absolutely no point spending a lot of money on a padlock when you have a cheap hasp and staple which it will fit onto. If you have e.g. Garage door, shed door ,lock up, and you require a heavy padlock please, please get a good locking bar, it could save you a lot of time and money. You have all types of padlocks most common are closed shackle and open shackle padlocks. There are combination padlocks normally used on bicycles and sheds but security isn’t very good on these type of padlock. The guide line to use with padlocks is CEN marking, this is a European marking for padlocks. If you require a good padlock, it will be expensive but it could save you money in the long run, make sure it is CEN rated. What you have to remember is that there is no padlock that is indestructible, although the length of time and amount of effort required to get through them varies greatly. Quality padlocks buy you time, they’re not guaranteed to stop the intruder. If you are using in conjunction with a chain, a closed shackle padlock is preferred choice. Metal containers are a problem when it comes to padlocks because they have a metal casing around where the padlock will be and that can cause a problem when fitting. The best one to use in this situation is a Removable shackle padlock, for maximum strength and snug fitting. Always check the diameter of the shackle hole before purchasing your padlock.
Cam Locks f) Cam Locks are use mainly on small cupboard doors, to suit door thickness 19mm to 28mm. They’re a basic mechanism disc tumbler low security lock which is very easy to fit. The cam lock has a cam on the back, which is available in 30mm, 54mm, 70mm and is tightened to the door with a nut. There are many cam lock manufacturers and again getting keys cut to some can prove difficult .
Plunger Locks g) Plunger locks are similar to cam locks in their mechanism but are different in the way they’re fitted and how they lock. Lengths vary, the most common being 24mm to 39mm and fitted through the door and screwed onto the back of the door. They are used mainly on sliding doors where one passes another. The lock is put into its locked position by pushing the lock with your thumb and the key will release the lock into the unlocked position.
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